Standing at 14,179 feet, Mount Shasta is the second highest peak in the Cascade Range and the crown jewel of Siskiyou. Mountaineering here is an exhilarating adventure that attracts climbers from all over the world. The climb is challenging, with steep slopes and unpredictable conditions, but the breathtaking views and sense of accomplishment make it a rewarding experience for anyone who attempts. Shasta Mountain Guides owner, Chris Carr answered some questions about what it takes to make this unforgettable journey to the peak.
How did you get into mountaineering? How many times have you summited Mt Shasta? Any other notable peaks and what is on your bucket list?
I got into mountaineering from a background of skiing, cycling, and rock climbing and it seemed like a natural progression. I’m from the east coast and explored many of New England’s peaks and ski areas while growing up. As soon as I moved out west and saw real mountains, I had the strong urge to go up. I have summited Shasta hundreds of times (nearly 200) and attempted thousands, I have spent countless nights camped on the mountain, including the summit.
I have climbed in the Alaska Range, Andes, and the Alps and every experience in the mountains serves as an opportunity for challenge and learning. After 30 years climbing on Mt. Shasta, on my bucket list now is to spend as much quality time with my family and friends as possible doing the things we love in good health and in good style.
When do people typically climb Mount Shasta? When does the planning process start and what does it look like?
The climbing season is typically April-September with peak timing for Avalanche Gulch May-June. The planning and preparation to climb Mt. Shasta generally starts 3-6 months in advance, assuming you have a good base level fitness. If not, a year or longer would be necessary. Most people greatly underestimate the challenge of mountaineering and the physical and mental challenge of the ascent. The months leading up to the climb should be committed to a rigorous training program while acquiring necessary equipment and supplies. The best training simulates the activity and hiking with a loaded pack on steep and rugged trails will best prepare you for climbing. Along with cardiovascular training, strength and conditioning, flexibility and core fitness.
What is the physical demand of summiting Mount Shasta?
The physical and mental effort are unlike any other ultra endurance event we choose to do. A typical summit day will be 12-16 hours of movement over rock, snow, and scree while managing steep terrain, high altitude, weather, and other unforeseen challenges; wind, cold, exposure, etc. Most people claim it’s the hardest thing they’ve ever done. Not everyone who attempts reaches the summit with conditioning and weather being the primary obstacles.
What is the oldest/ youngest person you have guided?
I have guided kids as young as 10 (not recommended, 16 is better) and adults in their 80’s. Mindset and proper preparation make the difference when climbing Mt. Shasta. This is not a speed event, slow and steady is the mantra while climbing. We don’t have to be fast, we have to be consistent.
What type of gear do I need?
Climbing Mt. Shasta does require specialized equipment like crampons, ice axes, mountaineering boots, etc and the knowledge of how to use it properly. These are expensive to purchase and renting is a good option from local outfitter the Fifth Season. We also dress in layers to compensate for the huge range of weather and temps we can expect from hot and burning sun to cold and brutal winds. Shell layers, hats, gloves, puffy jackets are needed even in the middle of summer. The upper mountain can be treacherous, even when it’s hot and mild in the valley and we have to be prepared for all possibilities, it’s a rare day to have a windless summit.
What does a climb look like, timeline and what can climbers expect as far as elements and risks?
Climbing Mt. Shasta is a multi-day activity with at least one night spent on the mountain and 2 nights/3 days even better. The first part involves going from the trailhead to basecamp, and this can be anywhere from timberline at 8,000′ to 10,000′ in elevation. The approach will have a heavy pack (40+ pounds) and often hot temps. High camp selection should take many things into consideration. Summit day will be an alpine start (between midnight and 2:00am) to climb when snow conditions are firm and supportive and to allow plenty of time to return by the end of the day. Most people require 8-9 hours up and 4-5 hours down to basecamp and another 2-3 hours to the trailhead.
Mountaineering does include inherent risk that cannot be eliminated; rock and ice fall from above, avalanches, slips and falls, getting lost and disoriented, weather and exposure hazards, altitude illness among the most common.
Interesting stories or a favorite memory?
It is just such a privilege to be able to do this regularly and to be on the mountain in all seasons and all conditions. There is such a range of beauty and raw natural power that can be so breathtaking and beautiful and it’s a true joy to experience this regularly while living at the base of such a powerful mountain.
Anything else that a visitor to Siskiyou might need to know about SMG or mountaineering on Mount Shasta?
We are local guides that have been in operation for over 40 years, this is my 30th year on the mountain. Mountaineering and adventuring on Mt. Shasta is a unique privilege and we are extremely grateful for this opportunity and to share it with so many guests over the years. Don’t underestimate this challenge, the better prepared and knowledgeable people are, the better the experience they will have.
If you are interested in guided climbing, skiing or mountaineering expedition trips on Mount Shasta, connect with Shasta Mountain Guides for more information.
(all images provided with permission by Shasta Mountain Guides)